朱思维在中国，很多爱好者都是从澳州酒开始进入这个丰富而美妙的葡萄酒世界的。除了性价比上的突出优势，在新世界的葡萄酒版图上，恐怕也很少有哪个国家葡萄酒的风格和产区多样性可以与澳大利亚相比。澳洲每年都出产着众多丝毫不逊色与旧世界顶级名庄的佳酿，而且凭借风土多样性和无畏的开创精神树立的优势，很多澳洲名庄都选择酿造多款来自不同葡萄品种、风格迥异的葡萄酒。消费者们面对纷繁复杂的选择，确实很需要一张权威公正的分级排名榜单来拨云见日、按图索骥。
1990年，兰顿澳洲葡萄酒分级（Langton’s Classification）就是在这样的背景下诞生的。25年后，兰顿分级已经成为澳洲葡萄酒界广受认可的分级排名。“25年的努力，让兰顿分级成为澳洲葡萄酒最为重要的参考分级，也是欧洲之外最为著名的分级排名。”兰顿分级的缔造者之一、葡萄酒大师安德鲁·卡雅（Andrew Caillard MW）在他和Wine100共同举办的最新兰顿分级葡萄酒品鉴大师班上告诉我。2014年5月份刚刚发布的第六版兰顿分级中，139款澳洲最顶尖的佳酿有幸进入这座澳洲葡萄酒的“名人堂”，每5年左右一次的更新也记录了澳洲葡萄酒品质革命性的提升（现在改为每4年更新一次）。
兰顿分级是一项针对酒款的分级，也就是说一家酒庄可能有多款葡萄酒入选这一分级，根据澳洲领先的兰顿拍卖行（Langton）通过拍卖市场上澳洲葡萄酒的各年份综合评估，计算得到的排名。要有资格参加排名，酒庄的酒款必须至少有10个已经酿造好的年份（不一定都已经上市），同时在二级市场（包括拍卖市场在内）要有可以被查询到的交易记录。“计算澳大利亚精品酒的分级实际上并不是一件特别复杂而困难的工作。这些数据都在兰顿的网站上公开可以查询到，理论上说任何人都可以用这些数据重现这份排名的结果。”安德鲁·卡雅在采访中告诉我。“也有一些我很喜欢的品质非常好的葡萄酒并没有进入分级，是因为它们没有足够的在二级市场上的流通量所以不能参评。” 但也正因为需要有足够二级市场交易的出色表现才能获得分级的认可，才保证了能够入列分级的葡萄酒都是有长期稳定优秀表现的佳酿，这是一个慎重的分级。
第六版全新的兰顿分级有三个层次，从高到低依次为：Exceptional 至尊级（21款），Outstanding 卓越级（52款）和Excellent 优秀级（65款）。与上次2010年更新的第五版相比，第六版分级的最大变化是从4个级别简化到了3个。“我们的分级不是一个欧洲的分级体系，我们认真考虑之后，觉得三个级别就已经非常好了。”安德鲁·卡雅这么解释道。“当然曾经四个级别的最后一级的大部分成员都被并入了第三个级别，是对整体的重新定标。但这项简化工作是必须要做的，在未来我们希望兰顿分级会一直成为一个大家都能理解的分级。”
除了列出所有澳洲葡萄酒市场上的长期突出酒款，这个分级在近年的更新也反映甚至预测了一些澳洲酒随着全世界葡萄酒饮用潮流改变而产生的趋势性变化，比如对单一葡萄园和子产区特性的强调。不过通常市场价格的变动还是相当稳定，对于一些最新的潮流的反应比如对于凉爽产区葡萄酒的重新流行，不一定是最为及时的。安德鲁·卡雅对此大胆地做出一个前瞻性的判断，“目前澳洲葡萄酒最重要的趋势——对于有机和生物动力种植方法的重视，我在最新的分级说明文章中指出，20年后，甚至即使显得有些武断地说10年之后，如果有哪家酒庄还不能做到像有机、生物动力这样对环境友好和可持续的方式来生产酿造葡萄酒，那它甚至都不会被人视为生产精品酒的酒庄。”
对于喜欢澳洲葡萄酒的爱好者来说，兰顿分级相当于一本难得的可以值得信赖的澳洲精品酒指南。简单看一下分级中最高的至尊级 Exceptional，虽然层级内排名不分先后，按照酒庄首字母顺序排序，但还是按常例把奔富葛兰许（Penfolds Grange）提到了整个分级的最前列作为领衔。其他列入最高级的诸如吉宫酒庄（Giaconda）的霞多丽，贝斯菲利普酒庄（Bass Phillip）的珍藏黑皮诺，国师酒庄（Grosset）的Polish Hill雷司令，翰思科酒庄（Henschke）的神恩山西拉（Hill of Grace Shiraz）和宝石山西拉（Mount Edelstone），奔富Bin 707，酝思酒庄（Wynns）的 Coonarwarra John Riddoch赤霞珠，这些都是毫无争议在澳洲各个产区的代表性品种中数一数二的佼佼者。今年4月末5月初两周的James Busby澳洲访问，我有机会走访了兰顿分级中地位最为突出的一批酒庄，所见所闻和品尝到的酒款都给我留下了深刻的印象，接下来也将会通过澳洲系列文章的形式，将它们介绍给知味的读者朋友们。
兰顿分级（Langton’s Classification）官方网站：https://www.langtons.com.au/Classification
兰顿第六版分级名单 Langton’s Classification VI
Exceptional 至尊级（21款）
PENFOLDS Bin 95 Grange Shiraz, South Australia
BASS PHILLIP Reserve Pinot Noir, Gippsland
BROKENWOOD WINES Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, Hunter Valley
CHRIS RINGLAND Shiraz, Barossa
CLARENDON HILLS Astralis Syrah, McLaren Vale
CLONAKILLA Shiraz/Viognier, Canberra District
CULLEN Diana Madeline Cabernet/Merlot, Margaret River
GIACONDA Chardonnay, Beechworth
GROSSET Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley
HENSCHKE Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley
HENSCHKE Mount Edelstone Shiraz, Eden Valley
JIM BARRY The Armagh Shiraz, Clare Valley
LEEUWIN ESTATE Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River
MOSS WOOD Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River
MOUNT MARY Quintet Cabernet Blend, Yarra Valley
PENFOLDS Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia
ROCKFORD Basket Press Shiraz, Barossa Valley
SEPPELTSFIELD 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley
TORBRECK Run Rig Shiraz, Barossa Valley
WENDOUREE Shiraz, Clare Valley
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE John Riddoch, Coonawarra
Outstanding 卓越级（52款）
BALNAVES OF COONAWARRA The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
BANNOCKBURN Serre Pinot Noir, Geelong
BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE E & E Black Pepper Shiraz, Barossa Valley
BASS PHILLIP Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland
BEST’S Thomson Family Great Western Shiraz, Grampians
BINDI Block 5 Pinot Noir, Macedon Ranges
BINDI Original Vineyard Pinot Noir, Macedon Ranges
CAPE MENTELLE Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River
CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD WINERY Rare Muscat, Rutherglen
CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD WINERY Rare Topaque, Rutherglen
CRAWFORD RIVER WINES Riesling, Henty
D’ARENBERG The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale
DALWHINNIE Eagle Shiraz, Pyrenees
DE BORTOLI Noble One, Riverina
DOMAINE A Cabernet Sauvignon, Coal River Valley Tasmania
GLAETZER WINES Amon Ra Shiraz, Barossa Valley
GRANT BURGE Meshach Shiraz, Barossa Valley
GREENOCK CREEK Roennfeldt Road Shiraz, Barossa Valley
GREENOCK CREEK Roennfeldt Road Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley GROSSET Springvale Riesling, Clare Valley
HENSCHKE Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, Eden Valley
HOUGHTON Jack Mann Cabernet Blend, Frankland River
JASPER HILL Emily’s Paddock Shiraz/Cabernet Franc, Heathcote
JASPER HILL Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz, Heathcote
KAESLER WINES Old Bastard Shiraz, Barossa Valley
KATNOOK ESTATE Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
KAY BROTHERS AMERY VINEYARDS Block 6 Old Vine Shiraz, McLaren Vale MAIN RIDGE ESTATE Half Acre Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula
MAJELLA The Malleea Cabernet/Shiraz, Coonawarra
MCWILLIAM’S Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon, Hunter Valley
MOUNT MARY Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley
NOON WINERY Reserve Shiraz, Langhorne Creek
NOON WINERY Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek
PARINGA ESTATE The Paringa Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula
PENFOLDS Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz, South Australia
PENFOLDS RWT Shiraz, Barossa
PENFOLDS St Henri Shiraz, South Australia
PENFOLDS Yattarna Chardonnay, South Eastern Australia
PETER LEHMANN Stonewell Shiraz, Barossa Valley
PIERRO Chardonnay, Margaret River
ROCKFORD Sparkling Black Shiraz, Barossa Valley
SEPPELT St Peters Great Western Vineyards Shiraz, Grampians
TAHBILK 1860 Vines Shiraz, Nagambie Lakes
TYRRELL’S Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley
VASSE FELIX Heytesbury Cabernet Blend, Margaret River
WENDOUREE Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley
WENDOUREE Cabernet/Malbec, Clare Valley
WENDOUREE Shiraz/Malbec, Clare Valley
WENDOUREE Shiraz/Mataro, Clare Valley
WOODLANDS (FAMILY SERIES) Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE Michael Shiraz, Coonawarra
WOLF BLASS Platinum Shiraz, South Australia
YALUMBA The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz, Barossa
Excellent 优秀级（65款）
BEST’S Bin O Great Western Shiraz, Grampians
BOWEN ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
BY FARR Sangreal Pinot Noir, Geelong
CASTAGNA Genesis Syrah, Beechworth
CHARLES MELTON Nine Popes Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre, Barossa Valley COLDSTREAM HILLS Reserve Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley
CORIOLE Lloyd Reserve Shiraz, McLaren Vale
CRAIGLEE Shiraz, Sunbury
DALWHINNIE Moonambel Shiraz, Pyrenees
D’ARENBERG WINES The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale
ELDERTON Command Shiraz, Barossa Valley
FOX CREEK Reserve Shiraz, McLaren Vale
FREYCINET VINEYARDS Pinot Noir, Eastern Tasmania
GIACONDA Warner Vineyard Shiraz, Beechworth
GROSSET Gaia Cabernet/Cabernet Franc/Merlot, Clare Valley
HARDYS Eileen Hardy Shiraz, South Australia
HENSCHKE Keyneton Estate Euphonium Shiraz/Cabernet/Merlot, Barossa
HOWARD PARK Abercrombie, Cabernet, Margaret River-Great Southern
JACOB’S CREEK ORLANDO St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
JOHN DUVAL WINES Plexus Grenache Shiraz/Mourvèdre, Barossa Valley
KALLESKE Johann Georg Old Vine Shiraz, Barossa Valley
KATNOOK ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
KATNOOK ESTATE Prodigy Shiraz, Coonawarra
KILIKANOON WINES Oracle Shiraz, Clare Valley
LANGMEIL WINERY The Freedom Shiraz, Barossa Valley
LAKE’S FOLLY White Label Cabernet Blend, Hunter Valley
LAKE’S FOLLY Yellow Label Chardonnay, Hunter Valley
LEEUWIN ESTATE Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River
LEO BURING Leonay Riesling, Eden/Clare Valley
LINDEMANS Limestone Ridge Vineyard Shiraz/Cabernet, Coonawarra
MAJELLA Cabernet, Coonawarra
MCWILLIAM’S Mount Pleasant Maurice O’Shea Shiraz, Hunter Valley
MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN Langi Shiraz, Grampians
MOUNT MARY Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
NOON WINERY Eclipse Blend Grenache/Shiraz, McLaren Vale
PARINGA ESTATE The Paringa Shiraz, Mornington Peninsula
PARKER COONAWARRA ESTATE Terra Rossa First Growth Cabernet/Merlot, Coonawarra
PENFOLDS Bin 128 Shiraz, Coonawarra
PENFOLDS Bin 28 Shiraz, South Australia
PENFOLDS Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia
PENFOLDS Magill Estate Shiraz, Adelaide
PETALUMA Coonawarra Cabernet/Merlot, Coonawarra
PETALUMA Hanlin Hill Riesling, Clare Valley
PEWSEY VALE The Contours Riesling, Eden Valley
PRIMO ESTATE Joseph Moda Cabernet/Merlot, McLaren Vale
ROLF BINDER Veritas Hanisch Shiraz, Barossa Valley
SALLY’S PADDOCK Cabernet/Shiraz/Cabernet Franc/Merlot, Pyrenees
SEPPELTSFIELD Para Liqueur Port, Barossa Valley
SAVATERRE Chardonnay, Beechworth
ST HALLETT Old Block Shiraz, Barossa
TIM ADAMS The Aberfeldy Shiraz, Clare Valley
TORBRECK Descendant Shiraz/Viognier, Barossa Valley
TURKEY FLAT Shiraz, Barossa Valley
TYRRELL’S Vat 47 Chardonnay, Hunter Valley
VASSE FELIX Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River
VOYAGER ESTATE Cabernet/Merlot, Margaret River
WANTIRNA ESTATE Amelia Cabernet/Merlot, Yarra Valley
WILD DUCK CREEK ESTATE Springflat Shiraz, Heathcote
WIRRA WIRRA RSW Shiraz, McLaren Vale
WOLF BLASS Black Label Cabernet/Shiraz, South Australia
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
YALUMBA The Signature Cabernet/Shiraz, Barossa
YARRA YARRA VINEYARD The Yarra Yarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley YARRA YERING Dry Red Wine No.1 Cabernet, Yarra Valley
YERINGBERG Cabernet Blend, Yarra Valley
就看他们这次直接把所有第四级都直接升成第三级这作法，就透着那么的不靠谱，更何况是拍卖行自己做出来的， 还不如 Matthew Jukes and Tyson Stelzer 的 The Great New Zealand Pinot Noir Classification，至少还有点独立性。
没有可比性吧，连分级都不是针对的一样事物。Langton的分级依据是完全公开透明的，价格记录都可以查到，通过这些数据，你也可以整出一个一样的排名结果，就这一点就比绝大多数通过主观判断评定不能复现的分级突出了。合并级别产生的问题在文章中已经提到，不再赘述。